The One Week of Prep That Makes or Breaks Your Pool Finish

Chris Oswalt

President of Probuilt Renovations

8 min read
A drained gunite pool with the tile taped off and the shell prepped and etched, ready for a base coat ahead of a new finish.

If you are doing your research on pool refinishing, here is the short version: the finish is the quick, easy part of the job. The week before it is what dictates how long that finish lasts. Good prep means heating the shell to find weak spots, repairing cracks and hollow areas, and roughing up the surface so the coating has something to grab. When that week gets rushed, that is where a new finish starts to fail. The cheaper a quote, the more corners a crew may have to cut, and prep is the easiest place to cut them because you cannot see it once the water goes in.

So if you are sitting on a few quotes right now and ours is not the cheapest, this is the post that explains why.

Below I will walk through what that week actually looks like on a gunite pool and a fiberglass pool, how to tell a careful crew from a fast one, and what a Kansas City calendar has to do with any of it.

Why the Finish Is the Easy Part

Once a pool is properly prepped, the finish goes on clean and quick. It is the least labor intensive step of the whole job. Most of the hard work happens before it gets sprayed.

That is a big part of why prep is where corners get cut. If a company lowballed the bid to win it, they have to make that money back somewhere, and prep is the easiest place to quietly trim, because you cannot see it once the water goes in. The finish can look great on day one either way. The difference shows up a year or so later, and by then the crew is often long gone.

What Happens During Prep Week

Every pool is a little different, but here is the general sequence, so you have a sense of what a careful job looks like.

It usually starts with heat, on both gunite and fiberglass. We tape off the tile, coping, and fixtures, then run heat across the surface and watch for pop-outs, which are little defects that would chip off later. It is much better to catch those now, with the pool empty, than under a fresh finish.

A drained pool with the tile and coping taped off while heat is run across the shell to reveal pop-outs and weak spots before refinishing.
The dark blisters appearing on the heated wall are the pop-outs. Every one of them is a spot that would have chipped through a fresh finish a year or two from now.

From there, the two pool types go a little differently. On fiberglass we fix any cracks and imperfections, wipe the whole pool down with acetone, and lay an epoxy base coat. Once that sets, the finish can go on.

On gunite we drag a heavy tow chain across the surface and tap around with a hammer, listening as we go. Solid shell rings solid. A hollow spot usually means the plaster has separated underneath. Those spots get demoed and re-plastered before we go any further. Then we acid etch the whole pool to rough it up so the base coat can grip, and lay two coats of base before the finish. That is the full sequence behind our gunite and fiberglass pool refinishing work.

A heavy tow chain being dragged across the floor of a drained gunite pool to sound out hollow spots where the plaster has separated from the shell.
A tow chain and a hammer are diagnostic tools on gunite. The patches where the old plaster has already let go are the same areas that would sound hollow under the chain.

How to Tell Your Crew Is Doing It Right

You do not need to know a thing about pool chemistry to spot a rushed job. You mostly need to know that the prep above should be happening at all.

If you have ever thrown pottery, you know that clay needs scoring, a roughening of the surface, to help it attach to more clay. This is similar. A smooth finish on smooth ground has less ability to adhere. If the surface is not being cleaned, checked, and roughed up first, the finish does not have much solid to bond to, and that is usually where problems start.

If you want the longer list of questions to put to each bidder, along with what a real warranty covers, our guide to vetting a pool coatings contractor goes through it one question at a time.

A Real One: The Pool That Got Hosed Off and Coated

A local apartment complex called us this summer. They had gone with a cheaper bid, and by the middle of the season their pool still was not open. The property manager reached out with concerns, so we went to take a look.

The tile looked fine. The trouble was underneath. The previous crew had not removed the old paint, had not blasted the surface, had not really prepped much of anything. They hosed it out, laid a scratch coat straight over it, and plastered on top. It might hold for a while. It could also start peeling within a year, because there was not much done to help it bond. Now we are coming in to do it the right way, and they are paying for the job twice. That is a big part of why this post exists.

The Surprise That Can Grow the Job

If one thing tends to grow a project once we are into it, it is hollow spots. When we sound out a gunite shell and find areas where the plaster has pulled away, we usually have to remove more than anyone would like and re-plaster before finishing. Nobody enjoys demoing extra. But leaving a hollow spot under a new finish is a pretty reliable way to end up right back where you started.

What Kansas City Weather Does to the Schedule

Coatings care about temperature, which means around here the calendar does a lot of the deciding for you. We want the pool walls and the air at a minimum of 50 degrees, ideally somewhere in the 60 to 80 range, and rarely over about 90. Too cold and the material will not cure the way it is supposed to. Too hot and it sets faster than anyone wants to work.

That window is not open all year in Kansas City, and everybody wants the same weeks. Depending on the season, we are typically booking three to six weeks out. So if the window matters to you, the time to start the conversation is before it closes, not the week you want the crew in your backyard.

Key Takeaways

The short version

  • The finish is the quick, easy part. The week of prep before it is the main factor in how long it lasts.
  • Good prep means heating the shell to find pop-outs, repairing cracks and hollow spots, and roughing up the surface so the coating bonds. On gunite that includes sounding the shell, acid etching, and two base coats. On fiberglass, patchwork, an acetone wipe, and an epoxy base coat.
  • The clearest thing to watch for is a crew laying coating with little or no prep in front of it.
  • Skipping prep is usually why cheaper finishes fail. We were recently called to fix a commercial pool that got hosed off and coated over old paint, and the owner is paying twice.
  • In KC, temperature drives the schedule: walls and air at least 50 degrees, ideally 60 to 80, rarely over about 90. That window closes, and booking runs three to six weeks out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions answered

What should I ask each contractor about pool prep work?

Five questions, and you do not need to understand the answers to learn something from them. How will you check the shell for hollow or weak spots before coating? How are you roughing up the surface so the finish bonds? Is there old paint on this pool, and what is your plan for it? How many days of this job are prep and how many are finish? What is your warranty, and does it still apply if the failure traces back to the surface underneath? A crew that does this work will answer fast. A crew that does not will get vague.

My pool finish already failed. Can it be redone properly, or am I stuck?

It can almost always be redone. What it costs depends on what is under there. Old paint has to come off, failed coating has to come off, and any hollow areas underneath have to be opened up and re-plastered before anything new goes on. That is more work than a first-time refinish, which is the expensive part of having gone cheap the first time. But the shell itself is usually fine.

How long does pool prep work take before the finish goes on?

Plan on the on-site work running about a week, and most of that week being prep. The finish itself goes on fast at the very end. If a bid has the whole job wrapping in a day or two, that is worth a direct question about what prep is included, because the sequence above does not compress into two days.

What is a hollow spot in a gunite pool, and why does it matter?

A hollow spot is an area where the old plaster has separated from the shell underneath. We find them by dragging a heavy tow chain across the surface and tapping with a hammer and listening. Solid shell rings solid; a separated area sounds dull. Those spots have to be demoed out and re-plastered, because a new finish laid over one has nothing solid holding it up and tends to fail in that exact spot.

When is the best time of year to refinish a pool in Kansas City?

Coatings want the pool walls and the air at a minimum of 50 degrees, ideally somewhere in the 60 to 80 range, and rarely over about 90. That rules out a good chunk of the Kansas City calendar and puts everybody after the same weeks. We are typically booking three to six weeks out, so starting the conversation early is what gets you the window you want.

Getting quotes for a refinish? It is worth asking each one about prep.

If one quote is higher than the rest, prep is often the reason. We are happy to walk you through what your pool actually needs before any finish goes on. No pressure.

We are based in Riverside, MO. Call (816) 786-3893 and you will get someone who has actually stood in a drained pool.